WHITE WINE POACHED PEARS WITH CHOCOLATE
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Summer has returned to the San Francisco Bay Area. No rain for more than a month and the temperature has soared to over 85 degree Fahrenheit in the past week where I live (Silicon Valley). The leaves of the plum tree and maple tree in my backyard are still green but dried out on the branches before turning to brown; perhaps you can witness that only in California.
Pears are in season and I have been enjoying the taste and flavor many of them already, but more always I buy a bit too many, more than I can eat, but also framers at weekend farmers market are very generous for me. So this weekend I made white-wine poached pears and simple chocolate sauce.
Wine poached pear is one of a kind dessert I learned when I was a young cook in the training. I remember we made them quite often in October and November; normally we used red wine, but I personally like poaching with white wine because it doesn’t kill pear’s delicate flavor. They are good with the syrup, reduction of poaching liquid, serve with vanilla ice cream, or chocolate sauce. I also stuff poached pears with cream sauce or mascarpone cheese sometimes as Italian style dessert.
This time, I made a very simple chocolate sauce and the syrup of poaching liquid reduction. It is quite simple but looks elegant and tastes very delicious.
PEAR POACHED IN WHITE WINE
Recipe adapted from Chez Panisse Fruits by Alice Waters
6 poached pears
3 cups (1 bottle/750 ml) fruity white wine (such as a Marsanne, Viognier, Riesling)
1½ cups (300ml) water
1½ cups (300g) granulated sugar
One 2-inch piece vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise (optional)
½ cinnamon stick, broken into pieces
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
6 (about 1.3kg) firm, not-quite-ripe Bosc pears, peeled, stems intact
Pour the wine, water, and sugar into a nonreactive pot or a large saucepan that will hold the pears snugly. Stir over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Scrap the vanilla bean seeds and pods into the syrup. Add the cinnamon stick, lemon zest and juice. Arrange the pears in the liquid and cover with a piece of parchment paper and a plate to keep the fruit submerged. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and maintain the liquid a slow simmer, cooking the pears until tender, about 25-30 minutes, depending on size of fruits, and ripeness, a paring knife should slice into the center of the pear without resistance. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, still weighted and submerged in the liquid, and refrigerate to serve later.
To make pear syrup: measure out 3 cups of the poaching liquid, return to the saucepan, and reduce to a thick syrup (to about 1 to 1½ cup) over medium heat. A last minute splash of fresh wine or pear eau-de-vie will brighten the flavor. Serve 10.
CHOCOLATE SAUCE / The Salsa Di Cioccolato
makes 1½ cups
2 ounces (56g) bittersweet chocolate (65%), cut into small pieces
4 tablespoons cold water
½ cup (100g) granulated sugar
4 tablespoons brandy (preferably pear brandy)
½ cup (115ml) heavy cream
In a small saucepan, bring the water and sugar to boil making syrup quickly over medium heat add the chocolate, stir well until the chocolate is completely melted and the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat add the brandy and the cream, stir well to combine. Transfer the chocolate sauce to a clean container (I use a glass measuring cup) and refrigerate for about 1 hour.
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